By Jamie Goode, Sam Harrop
University of California Press, $29.95, 259 pages

When Louis Pasteur said “Wine is the most healthful and most hygienic of beverages,” it is likely he was talking about wine made with the integrity and character of the grape at the fore. Authentic Wine is a sensible discussion of natural and sustainable winemaking as it was in the beginning and as it has been gaining in popularity in recent years. The greening of the wine trade with biodynamic and organic farming practices are illustrated, in part, by case studies from Oregon’s own Brick House Vineyards in the Willamette Valley and Beaux Freres in the Chehalem Valley. Both growers and wine makers are part of the natural wine movement whose history and philosophy are explained by wine writer, Jamie Goode and winemaker, Sam Harrop.

Written to be understood by ordinary wine drinkers, Goode and Harrop explain the details of certified organic and biodynamic farming, the influence of grafting vs. ungrafted vines, the nuances of appellations and terroir and the interventions of the winemaker that ultimately determine the quality and cost of the final glass of wine. It is information that will only add to the pleasure of your next wine tour and chat with the winemaker.

Reviewed by Sue Phelps